by Jennifer Smolen
Upper East Side. Three simple words that have been the chorus for jingles, lyrics in music, a status symbol, home to one of the countries wealthiest zip codes and an ever changing diverse community. With all of these attributes, this little enclave of NYC can be quite expensive for a young bloke, struggling student, fashionista or a weary traveler. Trust me, I know. Independence never tasted so sweet as when I signed the lease for my very own one bedroom on the Upper East Side at the tender age of 24. No roommate, no parents, just me and my slice of space in the city that never sleeps for the bargain price of $1550 a month. Corners had to be cut, walking replaced a car and creative inventions for entertainment and sometimes meals had to be well created. Bargain hunting became my favorite past time - and here I share a great way to get to know the UES, taste some of the best delicacies this neighborhood has to offer all the while getting some exercise and not spending one cent.
You see, I found that the best way to get to know the nooks and crannies of my new home was to start walking and start exploring - up and down the historic and some new streets, past some old and some new gems of stores and meeting the old and new inhabitants. I soon discovered all of these unbelievable gourmet grocery food stores and little bakeries that actually want you to try what they are selling before you pull out your wallet! So was born my famous Sample Walk - different routes and different destinations of course - each enabling me to get to know the UES and sample some treats! I share with you one of my walks - however I must caution you, prepare yourself to explore some of the most talked about gourmet eateries in NYC and see first hand some of the most beautiful cut pieces of meat, bountiful cheeses, plethora of fruits, vegetables and layers upon layers of bread and baked yummies! Lets go!
We begin at a little unknown but fabulous bakery called Two Little Red Hens on second avenue between 85th and 86th streets. This tiny space is parent to the best cupcakes in all of NYC. Magnolia, Crumbs, Buttercup - all good - but not as genuine and fresh as this unique bakery. Just looking at the Brooklyn Blackout or the Lemon Cloud is a treat within itself as there is no other and I mean no other cupcake out there that can compare. This bakery has been around for over 17 years and is always packed around the holidays and you better get your orders in early because they are literally stacked to the ceiling with pie orders as they are made fresh and the demand is pretty high! Look for a plate by the register which usually holds some cut up fresh cookies or biscotti or some other treat that they would like everyone to try and get a feel for what they have to offer. So small and understated but don’t be fooled, dynamite really does come in small packages and this place definitely proves to be a blast!
Moving right along down second avenue and up to third where you will stop at one of Eli Zabars notorious groceries, simply called, well Eli’s between 80th and 81st streets.
Head right in and down the escalator past the floral department and you will be greeted by the most unique and colorful fruits and vegetables from yellow, green, orange and red tomatoes to an abundance of mushrooms and fresh pastas and olives. As you make your way through the colorful selection and learn some new fruits and veggies, you will find an enormous selection of cheeses, from aged goat to gouda all the way to brie and parmesan with many in between! There is usually a nice selection of wafers and a different cheese to sample - this is usually by the olive bar. Stop and have a taste and potentially try a cheese that you have never even heard of - Eli’s has it all! Head on up the escalator into the bakery section and view all of the rolls, croissants, breads, bagels, muffins, scones - yes it can be overwhelming and no you will not gain any weight by simply looking at all of these little tempting devils! But in the middle section, there is usually a nice box full of crumb cake or babka samples - so different and so delicious, take one and walk away as they can be quite addictive! You might be getting full, but save room there is one more stop and no, you still will not have to spend a cent!! Also, a small fact about Eli’s, he has his bread freshly made a little north on 91st between 1st and York avenues at his bread factory - save that for another day!
As you emerge from Eli’s, you will head south towards 79th street and continue past second avenue down to first avenue. The best as surely been saved for last! Don’t forget, this walk is allowing you to get to know this great neighborhood without breaking the bank. Do take note of all of the architecture on the buildings and the way that each store is uniquely created and designed -
it really is an eclectic community. Ok, so you are now on your way to Agata and Valentina which has incorporated the corner of 79th and first for over 16 years and once was managed by the infamous Rachel Ray. As you enter the door you will be greeted by the bread station and a nice basket full of all different sorts of breads to taste - if you are lucky they will have some chocolate or prosciuto bread! While you are walking through this market you will feel like you stepped out of the UES and into a crammed Italian square in Italy as soft Italian music plays and you are comforted by smells of sauces and cheeses being cooked all around you. Walk around the bend and past the butcher and to the right there will be a small nook that holds all of their coffee and a sample waiting to be tried along with a biscuit. Their coffee is one of the best out there - any Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts lover will be sure to adopt A&V’s flavor as it is a perfect blend and a delectable cup of brew. Upon circling the store and watching the pasta makers make the pasta from scratch and the bakers mix the flour and sugar be on the lookout for the occasional sampling of baked goods - although rare it is a great way to taste these talented bakers craft.
There you have it - just a dose of the many sample walks there are on the UES and a nice walk through a neighborhood that is home to exceptional groceries, eateries and pieces of history. This just proves that you don’t have to be a millionaire to live and breath on the UES - anyone can experience what we have to offer at any price or as I just proved, no price at all!