Bruno Jamais: Five Stars for this Upper East Star

by Carrie Gross

Upon entering the sleek Upper East Side townhouse, nestled between Madison and Fifth Avenue on 81st Street, I knew I was in store for a superb meal at Bruno Jamais. Not one to base judgment on looks alone (in dating or in dining); I couldn’t ignore the sheer majestic entryway. Filled with priceless and rare wines the corridor led to a sliding glass door, a la James Bond which gracefully opened giving entry into the inner sanctum of this quintessential Upper East Side secret spot.

Greeted by Bruno Jamais, himself – a debonair Frenchman with a heavy accent and suave good looks, he got his restaurant experience in some of Manhattan’s finest dining establishments such as Daniel and Alain Ducasse before opening Bruno Jamais in 2002.

The art was not just on the plate, but the walls as well. With large life-size photographs of lips by artist Masha Mirmaram and displays in glass cabinets by high-end merchandisers, the ambiance was trendy but in a classy manner giving the restaurant a downtown trendiness but with an uptown richness. The well-appointed 120 seat dining room, with crisp white table linens and attentive wait staff provided a wonderful background for an exquisite meal.

Chef John Keller amazed me with his wizardry. Combining French food with an Asian subtext he admittedly picked up from his days at Nobu, my tuna tartar appetizer was delicious. A heaping size portion, Bruno Jamais did not skimp on quantity or quality. The fish was fresh, drizzled lightly with lemon ginger oil which did not compromise the integrity of the tuna itself.

For the next course, I had the chef’s specialty; Lobster Brulee. Keller’s own unique recipe, this dish featured chunks of meaty lobster buried beneath a lightly browned crust and finished with chanterelle mushroom puree. Ingeniously combining a dessert treat like Brulee and the delicacy of lobster, this dish was pure brilliance. “These are two of the most popular items we serve,” Keller, 29 with looks as good as his cooking told us. “As for drinks, everyone should try the Bruno Martini,” he added. The ‘Bruno Martini’, is a $35 proprietary cocktail; a mix of Patron Platinum and squeezed orange, which is shaken not stirred.

By 9:30 pm, the dining room was filled and the lounge area in the front exploded with live music and a lively crowd. Morphing into a nightclub/lounge-like environment, Bruno Jamais offers live entertainment on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday nights and features a DJ who spins 70s and 80s classics on Thursdays and Saturdays. The crowd was filled with a stylish and sophisticated Upper East Side group ranging in age from thirties to well beyond. A fun loving group of regulars enjoy Bruno Jamais for its five star cuisine and five star ambiance, an ambiance which feels very European but with a private supper club atmosphere to it. “Consistency and Ambiance,” Bruno Jamais says are the beacons which keep the crowds returning. “Only first class,” he adds. Indeed, everything here was first class.

Bruno Jamais features a late night dining menu. If the dancing crowds want to enjoy some late night snacks, a special menu from 12am-3am is available. With items like Lollipop Chicken Wings, Croque Madame and Tuna Tartar, the late night dining is still the quality you would receive for dinner.

There are two wine cellars at Bruno Jamais. With an extensive wine list sure to impress even the most sophisticated palate, bottles range from $40 to $9000. Private dinner parties can be hosted in either the main dining area or the lower wine cellar depending on numbers.

Bruno Jamais also hosts a monthly Champagne dinner. The next one is May 15th and will feature Keller’s specially created menu for the occasion.

It is rare to discover a new star when Manhattan is filled with so many. But this buried treasure, steps from the Met is a wonderful new find. The Upper East Side is awash in cookie cutter restaurants, but this five star restaurant breaks the mold, combining a dining and entertainment experience which is unique. Sexy and glamorous, Bruno Jamais is the brightest star on the Upper East.


Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club
24 E 81st Street (between 5th & Madison)
New York, NY 10028
212-396-3444


Read the next Uppereast.com review:
East River Cafe



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