The act of finding affordable date spots on the Upper East Side is a fine art. In a neighborhood that boasts upscale wonders like Coco Pazzo, Nino's and Jovia, the prospect of wining and dining in the remote vicinity of the Central Park Boathouse and East River can be daunting – especially for those living on entry-level or graduate student budgets. Yet, the area has become more and more populated with recent alumni and has always been home to the scrubs set of Cornell/Rockefeller. In the rare moments when these young and hungry are not earning their keep in offices, libraries or hospital halls, where can they go forth, eat and still prosper?

The answer becomes obvious when one explores several UES Italian ristoranti that are, somehow, both romantic and reasonable. It's no secret that Italians know something about love --- their poets, philosophers and courtesans practically redefined it in the Renaissance and have heated up our servings of passion and pasta ever since. Yet, while the area plays host to an overwhelming number of Italian establishments, not all of those options leave the heart, stomach and pocket equally enchanted. There are, however, at least three restaurant choices that will charm without breaking the bank.

Angels, found at 1135 First Avenue between 62nd and 63rd Streets, is right by Rockefeller University's green oasis. A small neighborhood find, its portions are enormous, its service kind and its décor charmingly kitsch.

In addition to a wide variety of gnocchi, baked and stuffed pasta, sandwiches, and chicken and seafood secondi piatti, Angels' menu features several primi piatti that showcase the restaurant's name: Angel Hair and Angel Wings. Dishes under these headings are made with cappellini and bowties, respectively. The San Saturno, a spicy mix of bowtie pasta and chicken, broccoli, scallions, tomatoes, fire roasted peppers, garlic and basil, is one of my favorite meals.

The best part about Angels, however, is its bread: warm, doughy, and perfectly flavored with olives and garlic, it's impossible to resist. Tenderly baked, it begins the meal the way any great date should begin – with a satisfying surprise from the start.

Another find some fifteen blocks north is located at 236 E. 77th St., between Second and Third Avenues: Caffe Buon Gusto. It is easy to walk right by this tiny gem in the heart of the Upper East Side, but once you stumble upon it the first time, its address is one you (and your date) will not forget.

Be sure to ask for garden seating, and the courteous wait staff will smile and escort you through the small front to a hidden delight: a cozy, walled-in garden tucked behind the establishment that is perfect for tables of two.

Not only is the service stellar, but Caffe Buon Gusto is also known for its "special" homemade pasta – the gnocchi is a particularly worthwhile indulgence. Its chicken pizzaiola, as well as its fish, are also among its best dishes, but almost anything here is delicious and inevitably "huge".

The owner is attentive and eager to please; his efforts are evidenced by the warmth and quality of both his dishes and the overall ambience of the restaurant.

Finally, for those who live in or prefer the East 80s, Rughetta is an ideal pick. I discovered it three years ago. My boyfriend was living with an ebullient Italian girl who adamantly refused to cook with anything but fresh gourmet produce, herbs, meats and cheese. She threatened his life (okay, maybe just his lease) if he even considered eating at Tony's Di Napoli. And when she heard that he and I had an important date one Friday night, she wrote one word and an address on a sticky pad and stuck the sheet on his bedroom door: "Rughetta, 347 E. 85 th St." On another sheet, she wrote, "Take her there." We went, we ate, we conquered our commitment fears, and we're still here.

So, what makes this small spot special? Rughetta, found between First and Second Avenues, appears at first glance as just another little Italian joint on the UES. But having spent a significant amount of time in "the old country," I can report that this restaurant's ingredients and creations are authentic. In particular, I would recommend the carciofi alla giuda (heart of artichokes antipasti), the ravioli con porcini (homemade pasta in a tomato and porcini sauce), and the delicately presented scaloppini al marsala of veal.

While the intimate interior is unassuming, its simplicity is elegant. And although the dishes do not attempt to be overly inventive, they are successful classics that, like the meals presented by all of these restaurants, rarely fail to satisfy.