by Carrie Gross
Among the plethora of dining options - the vast array of sushi, Thai and Italian restaurants which line the avenues and side streets of this fair city, there is a dearth of quality Chinese restaurants. Sure, every block has its hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurant with open-kitchen dining and a rushed industrial “Feed them and Free them” style. Many of these types of establishments will turn-off the discerning diner. There are very few top-notch restaurants which serve Chinese food in a bastion of sophistication and comfort while remaining a friendly neighborhood restaurant. Though the name may seem misleading at first for a Chinese restaurant, Gourmet Land is truly that: a gourmet upscale restaurant that happens to serve the best Chinese food in the land.
After 14-years of learning the Zen of Chinese cooking and the art of the restaurant business, owner Eric Borum left PF Chang’s to open Gourmet Land in December 2006. Borum, along with fellow PF Chang alums, his wife Megan and chef Ding, settled on a location on the Upper East Side on Second Avenue between 82nd and 83rd. Most Chinese restaurants have an atmosphere as warm and inviting as an ER at a public hospital: cold, sterile and clinical. Usually this lack of environment doesn’t bother my palate since I will order Chinese food as take-out or delivery and enjoy it in the comforts of my own home. But at Gourmet Land, there is reason to go out on a Sunday night instead of ordering in.
With its cherry wood floors and wall paneling, the attention to detail is noticeable. Crisp white linen table cloths and cloth napkins are highlighted by fresh flowers on each table and further illuminated with miniature lanterns that replace restaurants’ overused tea lights. A large terracotta warrior greets patrons as they enter this 1,400 square foot space that is built out with style and panache. Flat screen TVs line the wall over a large, wrapping tiled bar (fully stocked) that twists and turns in a Feng Shui river flowing way. The overall environment is calming, welcoming and sophisticated – an ambiance which adds to a meal and does not detract from the food.
The menu is large but not overwhelming, featuring a special section dedicated to gluten-free fare; Gourmet Land has established a niche, drawing crowds from faraway who would scale the Great Wall of China for quality gluten-free food. “We had a friend who was a Celiac (allergic to gluten) and they could never go out to eat because most restaurants did not offer options that were gluten-free,” Borum explained. Deriving inspiration from inconvenience, Borum and Ding worked to create an area of the menu where all items were gluten-free, going as far as to include gluten-free vodka and beer. The gourmet menu goes beyond the typical type “chicken and broccoli” dishes to include interesting palate-pleasing delicacies such as Asian Nachos (good for sharing), Soup Bun and Peking Duck Wrapper.
Sitting down to dine, the gracious staff was quick to offer a drink, provide water and make suggestions from the menu. For an appetizer, I selected the Chicken Lettuce Wraps. One of my favorites from the PF Chang menu, I was curious to see how it would differ at Gourmet Land. Beautifully presented, a heaping portion of succulent chicken with an aromatic sauce and crispy noodles arrived next to a bed of fresh crisp lettuce leaves. “Everything we have is fresh,” Borum explained that since his partner also owns a produce company they have access to the freshest and best ingredients. “We toss out everything we didn’t use that night. Everything we use arrives that day.” Gourmet Land was able to improve upon PF Chang’s Chicken Lettuce Wraps, taking the flavor and portion size to a bigger and better level.
After I consumed an entire appetizer that could easily feed two people, I attempted to make room for one of my personal favorites, Beef with Sesame Seeds. Drenched in a tangy sticky sauce without being overly oily, the beef was tender and the spears of broccoli crisp. Black and white sesame seeds added a zing to the dish which was finished off with scallions for a zestier bite. Again, the portions were generous and ample to be shared among many diners or to bring home for cold leftovers at midnight.
Next, I tried one of Gourmet Land’s specialties; The Crabmeat Soup Bun. Wonton-like packages housed both the soup and the meat. I needed directions from the staff on how to eat this neatly wrapped package. Though complicated to unwrap and eat properly, it was worth the present inside. First you must lightly pierce the outside wonton wrapper and let the piping hot soup drain onto a large Chinese soup spoon. The chicken-broth based soup was infused with the elements of the crab and quite unique in taste. Once the soup is drained from the wonton, you take the remaining deflated package which now houses the crabmeat and dip it into a black-vinegar based side sauce. Certainly much more interesting than Wonton Soup from your local greasy spoon Chinese, Gourmet Land has found a way to improve upon a Chinese favorite.
Gourmet Land has seen a steady rise in their customer base since their grand opening. Offering daily bar specials that include half-price appetizers and half-price draft beer, it is easy to see why the bar is packed. Gourmet Land provides free delivery for most of the Upper East Side (65th-102nd Street from the river to Park Avenue) as well as offering a $6.25 To-Go Lunch menu which includes an entrée, soda or soup and a choice or rice.
It is the perfect venue to go with friends or a large party because the menu is so expansive and there are so many different dishes to try. There is something for everyone – from tasty noodle dishes, to vegetarian delights to hearty meat, fish and chicken specials, even those with wheat allergies can find their own taste of heaven with soy sauce here. The portions are enormous and very well priced (most entrees are around $12) which makes it ideal to order many different things and swap tastes. With plans to open another Gourmet Land in the near future on the Upper West Side, Borum and his partners are confident in their recipe for success. They have drawn on the good elements of commercial Chinese food that they picked up at PF Chang’s but kept it real by infusing traditional and authentic flavor and character that they imported along with their chefs from China. Following the ancient principle of Feng Shui, Gourmet Land has blended the perfect balance and established a harmony between mind, body and the soul of good cooking.
Confucius says: He who tries Gourmet Land will never stay far from his new homeland.
| Gourmet Land1588 2nd Avenue (bet. 82nd & 83rd)New York, NY 10028212-772-8700 |
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