by Julie D. Andrews
It would be easy to breeze past the nondescript exterior of Nica Trattoria, a from-the-heartland Italian restaurant planted at 354 East 84th Street, between First and Second Avenues. And surely the regulars like it that way. At this dimly lit, dinner-only establishment, everybody does know your name … and your order: Homemade gnocchi soaked in a succulent white truffle sauce. It’s creamy. And, it’s sinful … in a most delightful, mouth-watering way.
This is not the type of place you hit hurriedly before hailing a cab to Broadway for an eight o’clock show. Rather, this is a seat you take when there is time to savor a pleasingly slow meal course-by-course, texture-by-texture to the tune of red wine bottled in Sicily. Here, foodies should be sure and ask about the courses they are eating.
Tuning into the full explanation of ingredients and process as told by Giuseppe adds to the pleasure of the experience. And, at Nica Trattoria, you won’t marvel at the post-modern artwork on the wall or watch bow-tied waiters continuously sweep crumbs from white-linen tablecloths. Its hidden, subdued nature adds to its charm. There are translucent windows and it’s small, seating no more than 25 guests at a time. Tables are close to one another (and Giuseppe likes to seat guests close together) so that the conversation in which you’re engaged tangles with conversations at adjoining tables swirling a pleasant, lively buzz of voices in the air. This is an authentic Italian restaurant that offers a warm atmosphere and what’s more, a robust food experience.
The best bet is by far the tasting menu in which you’ll try a wide range of textures and flavors. On this Friday evening, we started with the eggplant rollatini and the polenta with Gorgonzola – two absolute must-have appetizers. One of the things to love about this place is the experience of eating, and knowing that everything – from the bread to the desserts – is homemade in the back. "We cook here like we cook at home," says Giuseppe, who has managed several Manhattan restaurants but says " ... that’s business, whereas Nica Trattoria is like home." The eggplant was divine – filled with heated goat cheese, each bite melting into the cavern of my mouth. And, the Gorgonzola with its strong, distinctive flavor mingled nicely with the grainy texture of the polenta. The tasting menu also offers a superb way of avoiding the choice between the two most-favored entrees: the filet mignon au poivre and the grilled lamb chops. Why not sample both? The filet was tender and juicy, just right for dousing in the spicy and thick pepper saucy. Though it was a close toss up, I actually preferred the grilled lamp chops. At that point in the meal, it was nice to have a breather from creamy.
On meeting Giuseppe – who, wearing his white, buttoned-up chef’s coat grows animated as he chats up dinner guests and suggests the top order on any given night – it becomes readily apparent that this Nica Trattoria is his baby, his heart and soul. His passion for Italian cooking, which he’ll tell you he learned from his mother, Giuseppa, who ran her own restaurant in Sicily, bubbles over. He takes a certain pride in setting up a dining experience for each table. Top it all off with dessert. The panna cotta is made for the sharing and about all we could shovel into our bellies at that point. It’s a sweet cross between pudding and straight-up cream. After so many strong cheese flavors and salty, creamy sauces, this was the perfect finale. Primetime dining hours at Nica Trattoria start around 8p.m – that’s when the air is lively with banter, some of which is in Italian. While there, I saw one couple come in, greet Nica warmly with hugs and sit to a table by themselves. Within minutes, another couple, familiar to them entered through the door. Nica was quick to push two tables together so that the four, running into each other par chance, could dine together. If you’re hitting Nica Trattoria on a weekend night, be sure and make reservations before you go. Otherwise, getting a table is unlikely.
One more tip: Before you leave home stash some cash. All this homemade-to-order cooking comes at a greenbacks-only price tag. When asked about the key to his flavorful cooking, says Giuseppe: “The most important things are fresh ingredients,” adding, “But then, you have to put in the love. Because that’s what makes the food the best, the love you put in.” And to see Giuseppe talk about the food he is preparing is to see how he adores it.