by Carrie Pestronk
At first the idea for Caffe Grazie was a local neighborhood café, explains Jennifer Mandell, owner and executive chef. Its name, which translates from Italian to “Coffee, Thank You” was a concept, which Ms. Mandell was eager to bring to the Upper East Side. “Before there was a Starbucks on every corner, I had the idea of creating a local café with a limited menu.” But fortunately, due to an extremely positive review in the New York Times soon after opening and a cult-like local following, Caffe Grazie continued to grow, as did the crowds and the elaborate menu. In the fifteen years since Caffe Grazie opened on the corner of 84th and Madison Avenue, Mandell and her inventive cuisine have weathered the test of time and still continues to serve some of the best Italian food that the city has to offer.
It was only natural that Ms. Mandell open her own restaurant. Growing up on the Upper East Side, Mandell’s mother was a gourmet chef and owner of Epicurean Gallery, a local cooking school. “I always knew I wanted to have my restaurant. I loved experimenting with food and trying new dishes out,” Mandell explains. Her love of food and her talent as a restaurateur are visible in every detail – from the ever-evolving menu which changes seasonally to the rich melon-color walls and lush burgundy curtains and a soothing décor which Ms. Mandell personally influences. “The room’s look changes with my moods,” she mused as she pointed out the gorgeous Murano chandelier that was a recent find during the restaurant’s 2006 makeover. At heart, Caffe Grazie is a gourmet Italian restaurant that has been able to maintain a neighborhood charm in its two-floor, 67-seat enclave. Attracting tourists who flock from the museum which is just a short block over for the Bento Box Lunch (Mandell’s take of the Japanese Bento Box, but the Italian version offering two hearty items and one sweet item) and yet managing to earn an extremely loyal following of locals with delivery, take-out and weekend brunch specials.
Mandell is always searching out new ideas and many times doesn’t have to look much further than her own home for inspiration. “We just added Make-Your-Own-Sundae to the kid’s menu. Having two kids of my own, I thought it was a great idea to keep the kids occupied and interested during dinner,” Mandell adds. The popular children’s menu has extensive selections that are health conscious but tasty and reasonably priced at $15. “It’s amazing; some restaurants charge $30 for a kid’s pasta plate. We learned that when we took our children out to eat and I got the idea of doing something unique and family-friendly on our menu.” But it’s not just the kids who get to experience Mandell’s creative style and richly textured fare, Caffe Grazie offers a $35 pre-fix dinner – a glass of wine, appetizer and an entrée as well as a Sunday night, good old-fashioned spaghetti and meatball dinner with a salad for $17.50. At Caffe Grazie the wine is served in carafes and is also available in half-glass portions for diners who are looking to sample a new wine or would just like another half-glass. “Sometimes you just don’t want another full glass of wine,” Mandell jokes.
Although she uses the freshest ingredients to create brilliant in-the-moment dishes each season, the menu continues to offer some staple items that remain constant favorites to many of her patrons. “The Orecchiette with Italian Sweet and Hot Sausage, Spinach, Grape Tomatoes, Mozzarella with Garlic and Olive Oil – is one of the signature dishes which we always keep on the menu,” Mandell says. The menu is huge – covering all of the hearty Italian favorites, from “Veal Scaloppini in Aged Parmesan with Lemon, Capers and Spinach” to zesty pesce dishes such as “Garlicky Shrimp Scampi with Mashed Potatoes” to a variety of pastas in every shape, size and sauce, Caffe Grazie’s menu provides ample selections for all tastes.
The restaurant also offers beautiful event space for private parties. “We get a lot of bridal showers and baby showers,” Ms. Mandell points out. Caffe Grazie has a warm family feel which makes it the perfect spot to celebrate any special occasion or holiday. “We also offer party platters for take-out for our customers who are having a party at home but don’t want to be bothered preparing a gourmet meal or appetizers.” There doesn’t seem to be an ingredient or a concept which is overlooked in the preparation and the execution at Caffe Grazie. The menu is broad-based with an emphasis on comfort food without being extremely heavy – striking a perfect balance. Seemingly endless, the options are dizzying as one scans the menu, it is nearly impossible to settle on one item. “There are just so many things I want to try,” one salivating diner exclaims as he comes to rest on the “Cappellini with Smoked Salmon, Fresh Peas and Creamy Tomato Sauce”. That being said, it is best to eat at Caffe Grazie with a large group so that you can help yourself to forkfuls of your friends’ food.