In an upper East Side landscape brimming with nondescript bistros, any break from monotony is welcome. Respite dwells appropriately, beneath the Czech Republic’s consulate, in the form of culinary envoy. Czech for “ale house,” Hospoda’s name is sly deprecation.
More salon than saloon, this sleek, handsome room has the indulgent feeling of an international business-class lounge where tables are acres apart and conversation does not require shouting.
Meals here begin (and most end) with beer. One is greeted with a goblet of pure, icy Pilsner Urquell foam. The house dotes on its beer, giving it the attention typically reserved for vintage wine. The main attraction is the national pride — Urquell — served four distinct ways depending on the amount of air pumped in. A flight is a good way to discover the nuances of each. Read More